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How to Choose a Wood Finish: Oil vs. Wax vs. Varnish

Writer: Scott Marchand
Scott Marchand
2 days ago
3 min read

Updated: 2 days ago

Choosing a wood finish trips up more people than choosing the wood itself, mostly because there are three genuinely different categories doing three different jobs, and picking the wrong one for a piece's actual use can undo a lot of careful work. Wood finish types break down into penetrating finishes, film finishes, and wax, and knowing the difference matters a lot more than knowing brand names.

I get asked constantly which finish is "the best," and the honest answer is that the best finish depends entirely on what the piece needs to survive, not on some universal ranking.


Illustration of contrasting wood grain, a log cross-section, broad leaves and pine needles.
Wood species and grain illustration.

Penetrating Oil Finishes

Oils like mineral oil, walnut oil, and tung oil soak into the wood fibers rather than sitting on top as a separate layer, which gives you a natural, low sheen look that shows off the actual grain instead of a plastic looking coating over it. They're the right choice for anything that will contact food, cutting boards, bowls, utensils, since a properly cured, food-safe oil poses no risk once fully dry.

Mineral oil and food-safe walnut oil, or a beeswax and mineral oil blend, are the only oils that belong on a cutting board or any kitchenware. Cooking oils like olive oil or vegetable oil should never go anywhere near a wood cutting board, they go rancid over time and leave a piece smelling off no matter how well it was built otherwise.

Wax Finishes

Wax, usually a paste wax or a beeswax blend, sits in a middle ground, it builds up a thin protective layer on the surface without forming a hard shell the way a film finish does. It's easy to apply, easy to refresh with a quick reapplication, and it gives a soft, natural sheen that a lot of people prefer over anything glossier.

The tradeoff is durability. Wax offers minimal protection against water or heat compared to a film finish, so it works best on lower contact pieces or as a topcoat layered over an oil finish rather than as the sole protection on something that'll see daily hard use.

Film-Forming Finishes

Varnish, polyurethane, and lacquer all cure into a hard, continuous film sitting on top of the wood surface rather than soaking in. That film is what gives these finishes their much higher resistance to water, heat, and physical wear, which is exactly why they're the standard choice for tabletops, floors, and outdoor furniture that has to survive real abuse.

The downside is they change the look and feel of the wood more than an oil finish does, adding sheen and a slightly plastic feeling surface that some people love and others actively avoid on furniture where they want the wood to feel more natural under the hand.

Matching the Finish to the Piece

My rule of thumb is simple. Anything touching food gets a food-safe oil, full stop, no exceptions and no shortcuts with a cooking oil from the kitchen cabinet. My maple and purple heart charcuterie board and every other board I build gets a proper food-safe oil treatment before it ever leaves my shop, and I recommend customers reapply it every few weeks depending on how often the board gets washed.

For furniture that needs heavy protection, like a dining table or anything going outdoors, I lean toward a film finish. For pieces where I want the wood's natural feel to stay front and center, a wax or oil combination usually wins out, even if it means a little more maintenance down the line.

Reapplication Is Part of the Plan, Not a Failure

A common misconception is that a "good" finish shouldn't need reapplying, but that's backwards for anything getting genuine daily use. An oil or wax finish is meant to be refreshed periodically, and that maintenance is actually what keeps the wood protected and looking good for years instead of decades of neglect leading to a dried out, cracking surface.

Building that maintenance into your routine, a quick oil reapplication once a month on a cutting board, for instance, does more for a piece's longevity than any single finish choice ever will on its own.

Every piece I build leaves the shop with the right finish for its actual job, not just whatever looked good on the day. See the full lineup here.

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